Travelling on predominantly flat areas of England I decided to check out the Peak District following several recommendations of various people who'd gotten sick and tired of hearing me bellyache about how England, though exceptionally pretty, is not hilly enough for my riding preferences.

The route would take me, in a general clockwise direction, from Macclesfield and east to Buxton, then back to Macclesfield from the southeast.

 

It was a rather still morning when I rolled out and after a short distance I was almost immediately transported into a quiet, laid-back place following beautiful, narrow roads amidst wide-open, windswept moorland checkered with classic British drystone walling enclosed within which were sheep eyeing me with dumb curiosity.

 

Oh, and I almost forgot...it was hilly.

 

Before I had travelled 15kms I had gained a whopping 500m in elevation most of it having been gained from the long climb that started in Pott Shrigley (whose intriguing name derived from the Middle English potte, "a deep hole," plus Old English scric+leah, "woodland clearing frequented by missel-thrushes") and continued a little past Charles Head. This was followed by a quick, steep and a sharp right turn then an even longer climb up Oldgate Nick.

 

From Oldgate Nick I dropped down through a dense coniferous forest into the Goyt Valley and the Erwood Reservoir, in the process encountering a rare phenonmenon of a road that stretched flatly before me. This road couldn't resist the temptation and after about 2kms turned uphill, leaving the reservoir's tributaries down the pretty canyons below.

 

The ensuing area presented arguably the most picturesque and handsomely rugged part of the ride. Here and there brisk streams babbled as morning having broken, they couldn't go about their business for the day without first getting their fill of gossip for breakfast. This remote-looking stretch with its lush vegetation, small canyons and mini-waterfalls triggered recollection of the rides around California's Sonoma/Napa Counties undertaken not too long ago.

 

You have to hand it to the English that the Peak District, a place of great beauty but little utilitarian value lodged between Manchester and Sheffield (cities that played dominant roles in England's Industrial Revolution) was spared ravaging in spite of what must have been great demand for fuel and other resources. They showed remarkable foresight (or at least great restraint) in protecting this lush area and although there was quarrying, lead and copper mining, the exploitation could have been much worse. In 1951, the Peak District became Britain's first national park.

 

A much steeper road took over from the previous pleasant rolling stretch, this one going up with fierce determination as if trying to make

 

the last call to the Cat & Fiddle Inn. This was one of those climbs where you can see how much higher you have to go; in this case, the fast-moving cars on the crossroad up ahead looked very tiny, while the climb ahead had no signs of letting up. Upon reaching the summit and before I could catch my next breath I started accelerating on a screaming descent down towards Wildboarclough. Here, the road levelled off a little before hitting an incline of at least 15% and rarely, if ever, dipping less than that.

 

The ensuing descent deposited me at Sutton Lane Ends where I turned the bike around and negotiated the 5km steady uphill followed by an equally steep plunge down the River Dane, followed by a long, steady climb up to the enigmatically monickered village of Flash (which claims to be the highest village in England). Flash was followed by two successive 12%+ hills at Gamball's Green, the first of which I conquered thanks in no small part to a particularly vocal (and may I add, ugly) canine's impressive display of fangs and barking ability; the second I barely got over only because a particularly lovable car driver was breathing down my neck as I inched my way up.

 

Crossing Staffordshire into Derbyshire, I reached Buxton after a few more uneventful miles.

 

Buxton is a handsome town with Roman footprints all over it. A sense of deja vu overhelmed me, reinforced by the Georgian buildings, the spa waters, and a crescent: Bath Lite is what it was. There was a lot to see in Buxton, but after a short break and a cursory tour of the place it was time to move on.

 

Heading southeast out of Buxton was an opportunity to use my 53 x 14 for an extended stretch. After a singularly ugly climb out of Brierlow Bar the landscape reverted from rural to rugged, climbing in and out of deep canyons presumably carved by the network of rivers in the area.

 

Entering the final phase of my route I headed for what looked like, on paper at least, a straight shot across to where the day began. But the chosen road was a mocking procession of at least 5 hills of equal length and steepness. Not too steep, mind you, just pesky. Soon I was back in the River Dane area at Greens and into Cheshire. It was deja vu all over again as I climbed up a 10% hill I enjoyed descending several hours ago. The flashback-in-reverse continued on the run back to Macclesfield. I next climbed a long, steep stretch between Allgreave and Brooms. But all good things come to an end and I darted out into the straight road to Sutton, from where I practically freewheeled back to Macclesfield. WHEW!!!

 

The secret to riding in the Peak District and its steady diet of short and steep climbs is recovery. The hills come fast and furious that one's legs only has the ensuing short descent to get ready for the next burst of effort. The hills are not very protracted; the peaks themselves top out at 400m-500m and the roads carved into them a couple of hundred metres lower, thus a climb would rarely gain altitude in excess of 200m-300m. But grades of 10%, 12%, and even 15% were very common, putting a premium on leg strength.

 

Out of the Peak District I came across this most English example of the late Victorian era; a gate in the shape of a Penny Farthing.

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I found out about this ride late and so was one of those not to register, but rode anyway. The 138km lap had to be the only option and while I was unable to match The Lion King's time, I did nonetheless finish. As did this old-schooler riding the 55km course on a single speed. Quite impressive indeed!

I've previously spoken about some iconic climbs that really do deserve their status. Alp 'd Huez is one that demands perfection and Col 'd Ilzoard was perhaps the most satisfyling to date, but the hardest climb so far has been Tre Cine de Lavaredo. With an unrelenting 13kms to the top including the final 3kms at 18% it was sheer pain. Even zig-zagging across

the road to ease the pressure only added to what is sure madness in the minds of those who organise racing up here; something I just cannot fathom.  There is acknowledgement of cycling greats that have raced here as seen in this Fausto Coppi memorial on Passo del Pordoi.

As I bid farewell to the Dolomites and to Italy there is brief opportunity to experience Verona's outdoor opera house. Built during the Roman times it has survived to become a centre of musical culture and Verona identity. Seemingly, it all seems perfectly suited to farewell Italy.

26 June 2008

Passo dello Stelvio and Passo di Gavia; is it really fair to expect people to race up these climbs? These mountain passes are not for the faint hearted and will challenge how you see yourself as a cyclist. No amount of caffeine (and I've had alot) will help you here if you don't hold a sense of self-belief.

Halfway up Stelvio I came across the Silence-Lotto team out on a training ride. Watching them pass with a "ciao" and wave of a hand I could truely appreciate why they get paid to ride bikes. It was as if I was standing still and they were merrily sauntering along! No doubt they had an up coming race on their minds...

Stelvio itself wasn't as challenging as Gavia . Sure it was long and my jersey was open, helmet off, arm warmers down to help cool down the effort, but it was still a hard slog. Even a mid-ride stop to partake in a cold mountain shower courtesy of melting snow failed to cool things down. By the time I reached the top all that water had evaporated anyway! No, the real challenge today was Gavia.

From Briancom to the top it was relentless. No room for rest.The switchbacks were just teasers as they didn't afford any real break from the unrelenting climb to the 2621m summit. Yet, after all that, the semi-frozen alpine lake at the top with the monument to JC and views down the valley erased any pain I endured coming up. The views fom up here are absolutely stunning.

Stunning also is the ride down the other side; or should I say death-defying! One slight mistake and you're over the side on a free-fall of at least 1000m to land in the depth of the valley gorge. You could base jump from the road it's that sharp. The view is breathtaking, as is the possiblities...

25 June 2008

Lago d Como is a naturally forming body of water that looks like an upsidedown 'Y' from above. Its' location and size has contributed to a number of communities growing up and around its' banks and made life on the lake very relaxing indeed. People from all over the world visit here to take in what the lake has to offer.

The area also boasts cycling some fantastic cycling roads. Professional and amateurs alike train and live here; Australia's very own Cadel Evans is but one. Keen to get in some riding and experience what is on offer I spoke to a local shop who advised of a few different rides where I could jump on and get some good training in.

At the designated position the first group to come past was welcoming in their gestures for me to jump on. After a brief introduction I confirmed whether any of them spoke Englis h. There was a clear and unmistakable No! In their effort to detail the ride to me, I understood it to be a 50km ride and we would be back in two hours. However, it was up to a road-worker to translate that they were on a 100km ride and our return time was later than I first thought!

On responding in my best Spanish (it's easy to get Italian/Spanish mixed up) that it was OK by me these five very welcoming individuals (spontaneously named Il Pensionitos as they are all retired) welcomed me along their ride around Lago di Lagano.

Starting out through some industrial areas (it's the same in every city) we entered Switzerland for the first of several such crossings in our effort at negotiating this bordered body of water. The ride itself was undulating, passing through leafy and suburban areas that, given the housing density, lacked any real road traffic and any that did come our way were sure to give space as they passed us.

Just past the halfway point we stopped for the essential ride coffee. While our communication was next to nil, we all understood the meaning of 'mochiatto'. With the appropriate toast to throw this down and take a photo, it was time to head back towards Como.

Waving goodbye I decide the ride-day hadn't finished and set off to navigate the lower half of Lago di Como. The undulating roads took me around the lower half of the hill area to Bellagio and on to Lecco before finishing some 200kms for the day in Como. Some beautiful spots around the lake district to stop and have a swim or just continue on with very pleasant riding.

The introduction to Europe could not have been better with a warm welcome from the Wine Faries. I kid you not; these precious little creatures are suspended within a wine tower standing two stories high and holding over 4000 bottles. They seek out your favourite choice and deliver it without hardly a sweat. Upside down, sideways, back to front.....it's an entertaining way to enjoy your meal!

My first day started out thinking I was in a FF Coppola movie when I realised it was a call to arms for the local church. While throngs paraded in for their weekly infusion of meaning, I headed west to France to visit my own (cycling) temple, synagog, mosque and church..... Col 'd Lautaret (2058m), Col 'd Galibier twice (2566m), Col 'd Telegraph (1598m) and Alp 'd Huez (1860m).

The stream of options provided in the Alps and their proximity to western Italy means a cyclist never goes wanting. On this occassion, though, I did go wanting. I wanted more legs, more water, more air, more food, more tail wind and a little less headwind please! This was a ride that from the outset I knew was going to be hard and test any thoughts of endurance I entertained. Still, from the first moment of looking at a map I knew this was one challenge worth attempting.

The first two climbs proved challenging in themselves, the air is definitly thin up here. Near the top of Galibier there was time to stop and pay homage to a defining figure of the TdF, Henri Desgrange, a man who helped to create the largest annual sporting event in the world. Another 200m to climb to the top and the view was outstanding. Slinking down both sides of this behemouth points your only directions of travel.

No time to stand around as it is also cold and the desent is hard and fast. Be careful on achieving a high top speed as the corners are tight and consequences for any mistake is harsh. This car is just one such unlucky punter.

Climbing Telegraph was an easy affair compared to what had already been accomplished and marked the halfway point of today's challenge. Time for a coke and it was off on the return journey back up Galibier and down. This time my legs were definitely screaming out and threatening to go home if my lungs didn't pick up their act. Thinking my internal speak was helping calm the situation I realised it was my heart pumping blood up through my brain, ready to explode! The fresh breeze and opportunity to (sort of) rest on the desent provided some relief.

The next big challenge was Alp 'd Huez, a mythical climb made so by the numerous efforts of the world's best. My time was not without a constant sanity check on today's ride. Huez almost put the nail in the coffin, but the counting down on each corner of champions who won the race up helped to confirm I was making progress. Delusional about there being a crowd at the top to celebrate, the township itself was deserted. This winter playland was in summer hibernation today!

At the top of Ilzoard I met a local who uses the area for training rides and what better place to do it? The climbing is challenging, the view invigorating and the decents hair raising. Dani is lucky enough to have this at his doorstep while also being based in London. He's visited Australia in the past practicing some rock climbing in the mountains west of Sydney. (Well, actually they're mere hills compared to what is around here.) We spoke about riding a loop of the Briancon/Ilzoard/Guillestre area and his soound advice is that with some serious climbing and spectacular decending through steeped gorges, it is definitely a full day's ride and one where some semblence of freshness is require.

Right, another challenge......

To show just how valuable the area is for training I came across another local on an old mountain bike in footy shorts and sand shoes riding up to Ilzoard and back down to Briancon. I wonder how he'd go on a lightweight carbon creation with all the gear? People like this guy makes you feel soft.... I was half expecting him to old-school and pull out a cigarrette for the journey back down, but he didn't.

One thing I did consider on each of these climbs is how one can feel cheated at the speed at which you get to the bottom after spending so long getting to the top. Seems a bit unfair after all that work.

Western Canada has provided an array of memorial experiences from the vast selection of wildlife, mountain scenery, the Canadian National Biathlon Team training on Highwood Pass (they road-ski up the Pass, down the other side for 10kms before turning around and running back up) to the Panama To Alaska Friendship Rally www.globalrally.org.uk of 20 cars and three support vehicles taking in all that is offered across nine countries and 18,000kms. Talking with these people their passion for adventure is obvious and it is clear to see their vision is firmly fixed on the horizon!

The cycling scene is just as rich. While the first sporting thought is usually on ice hockey (not to mention the 250 team national road-ball hockey league that took up 3 city blocks for a weekend competion) there is weekly racing on Calgary's own outdoor 400mtr veledrome, regular road races around the country and the Midweek Mayhem Criterium Series held on a semi-closed circuit at the University. This course is mad with riders having to avoid road gravel, man-hole covers, parked and moving cars, not to mention any unsuspecting pedestrian! Check it out at www.midweek-mayhem.ca and compare it to your own track.

But, alas, time to move on and get some European tarmac under the wheels. North America provides a contrast of world class wine regions and seaside living to experiences across the top of the world. All distinctly different, yet all individually spectacular.

Looking up I can see the horizon looming.......

The area around Lake Windemere is a favourite riding area for mountain bikers. With an abundance of ride options from extreme to the very soft they often go off for hours on end up and down the mountains. Given the possibility of coming across a bear is very real they always ride in bunches and will carry "bear-bangers"  to scare off any pesky critter that might want to disturb their ride. At the end of their ride they'll "tailgate" - sit on the tailgate of their trucks and drink cold beer.

The road riders have it somewhat different. While there are some that might suggest "car-bangers" might add some enjoyment to their ride, beer is most definitely not on the post-ride menu. Caffeine will do, thanks very much!

Starting my ride in Inveremere along the shores of Lake Winderemere, there was 13kms of undulating descending to reach Radium Hot Springs and the first test of the day. From Radium it was 10kms of gradual climbing of an average of 6% with some sections briefly reaching 13%.

In Radium I met a couple from the UK touring across Canada from Vancouver to Montreal. Paul and Vicky left Vancouver on the 5th of June and were planning to take about two months to get to their destination. Camping most of the way meant their bikes were carrying alot more than my simple toolkit and food supplies, but they made it up the climb out of Radium without any concerns.

With plenty of room on the road and some very pleasant scenery we were at the top in no time at all. A brief stop to take it in and put on some wind protection, it was time to fly the 20kms or so downhill to the (essentially) flat section of Highway 93. 

Before we knew it there was a collection of cars parked alongside the road. Whenever this happens in Canada's mountains you are guaranteed to meet some wildlife. And did we! This little critter was enjoying a berry feast alongside the road and while it was fantastic to see, I didn't feel it was wise to hang around for too long. I said goodbye to the UK pair and headed off down the road (they wanted to take a few more pics....yikes!).

With another collection of cars 10kms up the road I was beggining to feel like joining a group of mountain bikers. This time though the wildlife was a posse of big horned mountain goats having a feed. There were a couple of smaller ones that looked like they were just babies. 

Thinking that I should get on if I was going to make my meeting time in Lake Louise it was time to be off. However, with a reminder of who we share this planet with I came across another bear poised in front of a group of cars taking pictures. I snapped a couple and left. Further down the road was a community of wild geese having some lunch who didn't like the look of a lycra-clad cyclists near their young! This festival of nature just didn't stop.

There was plenty of time to enjoy the 50kms of slightly undulating road which snakes its' way along the glacier corridor that helped form this area in ages past. The road is smooth and runs alongside these mountains which look like great big mounds of Rocky Road ice cream topped with frosty white chocolate dripping down the side. Recognising an impending hunger-flat I subsequently got stuck into some lunch....

Nearing the end of this road there was another 7km test uphill followed by a speed-fest down to the intersection of highway 1A and the final 15kms to my destination of Lake Louise and traveling support.

Those of you who have witnessed the emerald green waters of Lake Louise will understand the beauty and magic of the area. Lake Louise is naturally formed and fed by enourmous mineral rich mountains on three sides, with an ever-shrinking glacier on the far side. The water is so green and thick that your hand will disappear in its' colour 10cms below the surface. Paddle across its' surface on a hire-canoe and you get a fantastic view of the whole area.

One of the most scenic routes in Canada is the Icefield Parkway between Jasper and Banff. It is 230kms of undulating road laid down on a path carved out by ancient glaciers and between mountains that through sheer size alone deserve respect.

I was to start this ride near the halfway point at the Columbia Icefield Centre heading back towards Banff. Unfortunately for me, the wind decided to start at that point too! Still, it was time to press on and before I knew it I passed an area where I could see a huge boulder slide the size of cars. It was truly amazing.

Reaching the Sunwapta Pass at 2035 meters it was all-downhill for a long time. I tried to best the speeds of yesterday (87kmh), but it wasn’t to be. Perhaps it’s wise not to tempt fate too much and, besides, there’s plenty more mountains to come.

Coming from the other direction I saw a cycling couple pulling a small trailer traveling very slow up the hill. By this time the wind had turned around and was now in front of them. I gave a yell of support and continued on my way.

Crossing a bridge it was time to stop for a rest. Walking across the road I happened upon one of the most spectacular falls that I have ever seen called Panther Falls. Further along I came across the Weeping Wall on Cirrus Mountain, an abundance of smaller falls running down dark limestone walls and at one point cycled parallel to the North Saskatchewan River. Absolutely breath-taking.

Passing the Peyto Glacier Viewpoint I could see the Peyto Glacier descending from Wapta Icefield. Later on I reached the Bow Summit at an elevation of 2067 meters (the highest elevation in the Icefields Parkway). It is also the second highest pass where a car can drive. The climb was gradual up to the summit and didn’t feel too bad.

By the time I reached Lake Louise I was pretty hungry and decided to re-fuel at the corner bakery. They have a range of foods to suit the cyclist with good coffee across the way at the towns only café.

Once satisfied it was time to head out of town on Highway 1A to Banff. Also known as the Bow Valley Parkway, this road is a tunnel of green sprinkled with daisies everywhere and has a gradual decent. With over 100kms already in my legs it wasn’t a problem as this road is so enjoyable to ride. It has been described by a seasoned cycle-tourist as “possibly the best road I’ve ever ridden.” High praise indeed!

Finally arriving at the hotel my support crew queried what took me so long, while I queried how many beers they had already downed. Only three pints it seems, but that’s what happens when you send two hikers off for the day…. Time to get showered, change and do my best to catch up with them.

Swapping the sun drenched valleys and coast of California for the towering peaks of Canada’s Rocky Mountains is certainly a change. Not just in temperature, but also in riding options.

California offers a range of side-road options all within easy striking distance of San Francisco. There it’s a case of jump on your bike and ride. The Canadian Rockies demand more commitment than that, but also offer a different level of satisfaction to the committed cyclist.